I have composed a neat little assemblage of my latest favorites from Atelier New York. You gents sure are lucky…..
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL
More images and designers after the jump!
On a semi regular basis, I sing the song of love to my favorite men’s designer, Julius. Once again, with his new line, he has failed to disenchant me.
Bring on the tactical gothninjas!
Currently, men’s fashion has been dominated by the drape. The runways are covered with blokes sporting the scarf and sweater. An entire armada of walking coatracks has flooded the streets of every metropolis.
Now while I love the idea of the lads trying on a new trend, I can’t help but miss the silhouettes of yore. I can’t remember the last time I saw a dapper young gentleman with a tie and crisp collared shirt. It seems that tailoring has completely fallen to the wayside in lieu of outfits consisting of knit blankets.
I miss the sharp striplings,. Come back and visit once in a while, will you?
Recently, alt men’s fashion has become ensorceled in the rainy day shades of Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, Ann Demeulemeester, and the like. The age of the cargo pant and polo shirt are over. An army is emerging from the shadows, and they have taste……..
One such soldier of fortune is The Viridi-Anne, the Japanese -born label created by Tomoaki Okaniwa.
If there’s one thing the world needs, it’s fashion forward zombie hunters.
A term spawned by necessity on the superfuture style boards, then co-opted by 4chan’s /fa/shion board, “gothninja” addresses the current runway trend for draped, layered, top-heavy, grey and black urban battledress.
Unknown, possibly Rick Owens.
“Goth”, for the monochrome palette, overall gloom, Victorian and Edwardian inspiration,tattered edges, and super-tight, bordering-on-fetishistic fits. “Ninja”, for the obscured face, seaweed-like sweeps, and sense of sneakening.
The primary designers are Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, and Ann Demuelemeester, the latter unpronounceable lady I just want to murder in her spooky bed for giving birth to these boots:
As it is not financially feasible to have these boots AND a college education, I suggest you youngins sit down for a good hard think about where your priorities lie.
Like asphalt Bedouins, the gothninja tribe wraps, drapes, and jangles. The look is prohibitive: only the extremely svelte (or starved) can really pull it off. The silhouette is stick legs and swooping shoulders, making this one of the very few nearly-non-unisex fashion statements. Lookbook superstar Biz C. pulls off some gothninja garb with applomb, but the lady is far from voluptuous.
Luckily (I guess), the signature drop-crotch harem pants sported by so many gothninja have appeared in outlets as accessible as H&M, where hipster scum are already pairing them with Wayfarers for the ultimate in street-level purgative effect. Just the other day I saw a group of them standing in a circle, affecting disaffection while playing some sort of hackysack/lacrosse mashup, cradling the ‘sack in their sagging trousers while rolling their eyes. I had to have a lie down.
This cunt remains ambivalent about the ol’ drop-crotch, but the rest of gothninja speaks to me on a spiritual, sexual level. I find myself wearing too many scarves, cinching here and draping there, and generally refusing to give it a rest. I am told regularly that I “look like a crazy person” and I just cannot bring myself to care.
And it’s not all black holes and revelations; a few rebel cels have splintered off to form new flocks.
Cloudninja. (Rick Owens Fall ’09)
And of course, Steamninja. (Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 09, image from Fashion Flux)
I, like many cunts I know, have unhealthy obsessions. And the one that hurts our wallets the most has to be Fluevog.
When you can identify the shoe’s name and the family it belongs to, you know it’s gone too far. You’re sucked in, and the only way out is by spending every penny you save on foot orgasms.
Those of us besotted with the brand are currently squealing with joy in response to a few new releases.
Body Part: The Business Boots! The only boot that’s a shoe and a boyfriend (if i need to spell it out for you, the heel is shaped like a cock). $549
The LA: Melrose! The long awaited cousin to the legendary Grand Nationals. $445
The Earl of Warwick: Coventry! The fairest of the 2009 Men’s line. $295
Men, stop complaining.
I’ve had enough of men bleating that there are no decent designers or labels for men. It’s not that they don’t exist, it’s that you are far too lazy to look for them. I pity your lack of patience.
Here’s an easy bump in the right direction. Tokyo based designer Julius is exporting the look I want to see all of you swathed in by mid 2009. Julius and designers like him have slowly been creeping out of the shadows into the mainstream, providing us with the post-apocalyptic zombie hunter silhouette we crave.
You can find his collections in a wide range of stores all over the world, many in the United States. And if you find the price tag to be too exorbitant, the look is relatively easy to pull off .
1 cup distressed boots
2 tablespoons cargo pants
3 cups layered shirts
1 quart medley of belts and straps
1 whole leather jacket, distressed, destroyed, rebirthed
Pinch of black, brown, and gray